Word in advance: I have made a few mistakes in the designs you are about to see. Some are intentional, some are not. Always check the datasheet before wiring up something and use some common sense.
If you develop prototypes from time to time, you may have designed schematics. A lot of people start with Fritzing, because it’s very easy to start with Fritzing.
My opinion about Fritzing’s earnings model is known thanks to my previous post, but also the technique of Fritzing is not ideal. This is not so much because Fritzing doesn’t work well, because it does, but because it doesn’t teach you the right techniques.
Getting started with our prototype in Fritzing
This is how the default starts in breadboard mode. This allows you to design with visual elements, schematics, as if you were looking at your prototype. That looks like this, for example:
This is still relatively easy to use. It doesn’t look very neat, but it’s easy to build on this drawing. However, the problem is already becoming visible. Imagine if we were to add five more motors to our robot:
This way of drawing clearly doesn’t work. The large parts take up far too much space and the connections have to be drawn far too close to each other. As a result, the whole thing becomes very messy and unreadable. The result is that you quickly make mistakes when reproducing these schematics.
This is still a very simple prototype: an Arduino that controls six engines via Bluetooth. There are no sensors, resistors, capacitors, LEDs, buzzers, converters, et cetera.
Designing schematics based on breadboard design
Therefore we stop with the “breadboard view” and switch to the second option within Fritzing, namely “schematics”. This of course sounds much more like what we want to make.
This also looks disastrous. That is logical, as we have not yet started to connect and clean up parts. Fortunately, Fritzing has a tool for us! Before we can use it, we place the parts the way we want them.
Now we can use Fritzing’s famous tool: autoroute. This tries to automatically make the connections of the components (based on our breadboard design), so that we have a good schematics view. The result is as follows:
Autorouting our schematics
As you can see, only five of the twelve connections are actually connected. The other connections were not made, because Fritzing didn’t succeed in doing so within a hundred attempts.
Originally I thought this was the case because Fritzing doesn’t want to draw lines through other lines, but this scheme is also proof that this is not the case.
I also noticed that in the breadboard view I accidentally connected the GND directly to the VCC. Such a mistake was relatively easy to make in the breadboard view, while in the schematics this would not happen very quickly. Of course I solved this immediately, after which I ran the autoroute again. At that moment everything is done again, and this work of art is created:
Excuse my words, but: What the fuck is going on here? I clicked on the autoroute a thousand more times out of amazement and it never happened again, so I assume this was a bug.
I was actually secretly pleased to see that there were more connections now than before, but every autoroute after this bug gave the same disappointing result:
Unfortunately. We haven’t made any progress yet. If we try to solve this neatly by hand, we end up with something like this:
After I first had to remove dozens of ratsnest lines, because there was such a line between each VCC and GND, I drew the lines myself. Of course this doesn’t work very well, because a lot of lines have to be drawn over each other and this makes it very difficult to get a clear overview.
It is clear that we need another solution. It doesn’t seem like it’s possible to make everything clear in one drawing. Maybe we should split it up into several drawings.
Unfortunately, Fritzing doesn’t have the support to do that in a good way. Before I switch to KiCad to show how to do it, I want to show what Fritzing does with PCB’s: the most important part. In the end, you want to be able to convert any good prototype into a PCB.
After I open the PCB view and manually place everything in a convenient place on my board, I click on autoroute. I expect Fritzing to try to use as few layers as possible and make sure a working PCB comes out.
Unfortunately, only the latter turns out to be true. Fritzing knows how to successfully connect everything, but that’s all there is to it. It doesn’t matter if it doesn’t work, but don’t offer it then.
A better alternative
Let’s move on to a solution that will hopefully work better. We’re going to split our design into several parts, each of which will be explained separately. This will keep the whole thing clear to work with.
We’ll get on with KiCad. This is an open source EDA that actually does work well. (KiCad, if you are reading this: your SSL certificate is not set correctly)
Create your first schematics
Let’s start all over again. Let’s learn from what we did wrong with the design in Fritzing. There, we tried to map out the whole system at once, and we saw that it didn’t even work with these small applications. We start by bringing our parts all into our project.
For some reason, this is already looking better, even though we haven’t done anything yet. In my opinion, KiCad feels much more professional than Fritzing.
Please note that I replaced the HC-05 here with a more serious Bluetooth module. The HC-05 is very nice when you are experimenting, but you don’t want to use it in your final product. So, in the prototyping process, start working with the module you want to use, so that you know if it works with your application.
Let’s make some standard connections, and indicate the connections between the elements with labels. KiCad natively supports this and this makes working with these schematics much clearer.
Now all our parts are on one page, together with the connections between all the parts. If we now want to expand or clarify parts, it can be done relatively easily. For example, we can add an LED to make it clear when the Bluetooth module is activated and we can make the current in the circuit clear. So I want this to work on a 12V battery and I want to give the motors 6V of that as well.
This is still far from enough to make a good PCB, but it gives a good picture of the difference in readability between Fritzing and KiCad. This is still far from enough to make a good PCB, but it gives a good picture of the difference in readability between Fritzing and KiCad.
On making PCBs in KiCad, I’ll go into it later. I do hope that you have gotten a picture of designing in KiCad and I would strongly advise you to take a look at it. Once you’ve started, you’ll never want to go back to Fritzing.